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DAY
TWO COMMENTARY
Day Two started out most pleasantly
enough; a
solid
night's
sleep (first ever tent overnight spent outside of my backyard!) was
followed by
a pre-alarm awakening, early enough to prevent me from having to bash
that
clock into many little pieces. And the weather was gorgeous, so I fired
up the
camp stove
-- somehow, without a hitch -- and made breakfast. The
oatmeal was
rather good, but there were minor Tea Issues: to wit, since I had to
use that
powdered creamer (not being able to rely on a steady source of ice with
which
to cool milk), the tea stayed really hot for the first several minutes,
then
began (via the concept of either entropy or enthalpy, I cannot quite
recall) to
cool off with a quickness.
The overly rapid cooling of tea was
not to be the biggest of my worries
this
morning, however. It had become rather apparent that the trailer had
been
bottoming out on its suspension over big bumps or dips in the road, and
the
tires had been rubbing a-gaynst the fenders in the proh-cess. It was to
the
point that the wear was easily visible. What to do? Remove the fenders,
what
else? So here on Day Two, before departing, The Chief (tm) was to carry
out
what would hopefully be the first and only semi-major repair of the
entire
trip.
Thanks to shrewd inclusion of certain tools
amongst the cargo -- and
generous
application of both smarts and muscle -- said semi-major repair was
completed
in under an hour. The rig was ready to roll! Not quite so fast, though:
the
packing process seemed to come from an Operations Management 201 flow
chart,
rather than a mere sustained effort to randomly throw everything and
anything
into the trailer. Why? Because certain things had to be done before
certain
other things. For instance, I didn’t want to put on my riding clothes
before
breaking down the tent, or I would probably perspire inside of them
before even
starting to ride. But if I took down the tent, then I’d most likely
need to
change in the shower room, not back at the campsite. So I’d have to
bring my
clothes with me to the shower room after having
taken down the tent. So I had to pull out my clothes for the day, then
take
down the tent, then put the tent in the bottom of the trailer, then put
the
clothing bag on top of that, then shower and dress, and put the
overnight clothes
and toiletries bag into the trailer on top of the tent and clothes bag.
See how
crazy this was becoming here on, um, Day Two?
FAST FORWARD: trailer is repaired, tent is
taken down, The Chief (tm)
is
showered and contact-lensed, and everything is packed away and ready to
go.
Labor to move the bike backwards against the slight incline, on gravel,
so as
to be able to easily hook up the trailer in the direction of travel. Do
all
that, fire up the bike, pull out of the campground, and ninety seconds
later
the skies open up like only Noah knows about.
OK, on the one hand, not the end of the world:
rain
gear is
packed in the right-hand saddlebag. On the other hand, I need to find a
place
to pull over to put it on, and the road is super-twisty with no
pull-off areas
on my side, and traffic is coming in the other direction, and because
I’m not
going very fast the raindrops are pelting me in the face rather than
being
deflected by the airflow over the windshield. I can barely see, the
curvy road
is awash with flowing water, and it’s getting ugly.
Now, while not necessarily being a pessimist,
The
Chief (tm) is
also not necessarily your dyed-in-the-wool “silver lining in the dark
cloud”
kind of guy. Nevertheless, the first thought here was, “what if all
that had
happened while I was breaking down camp?” What would I have done? Stood
there
in the rain with the tent amassing all the water? Seriously, setting up
camp at
9:30 PM was bad enough, but how ridiculous would this
have been, all for the matter of two minutes or
so?
Eventually I find a spot to pull over, and not
easily, for
it is on the other side of the road, so I have to time it just right,
then not
wipe out in the soft, wet soil. Half-dressed people are running to
their cars
from their suntanning spots on the riverbed, so I’m not the only idiot
who was
caught completely off-guard by the monsoon. Rain gear on, best part is
that it
is now keeping all the moisture from the wet clothes in,
and you know it’s usually just a matter of
minutes before the
sun comes out again. In the event, it stayed mostly cloudy and cool for
quite
some time, so I didn’t start baking nor even care about having the gear
on
until much later, well after the bike passed not only a major milestone
but a
road sign for the Eastern Continental Divide, elevation 2,600 ft. or so.
My chosen route to Knoxville was to take me
through Great
Smoky
Mountains
National Park. The gateway to the Park is the town of
Cherokee, NC,
within the
Cherokee Indian Reservation. I learned three years ago that the town
will let
you smoke all you want, but God forbid you try to enjoy alcohol with
your
dinner or at the casino. Back then, at the motel check-in desk it had
somehow
come up that the casino -- a rather large Harrah’s destination-style
place -- did
not offer alcohol. Even with the restaurants selling high-end steaks
and
seafood, I asked? OK, so where can I buy some beer and/or wine to bring
in with
me? Ixnay on that -- you can’t even bring it in. Incredible! So I drove
ten
miles anyway to buy two (?) six packs of Budweiser, bought a family
pack of
Kentucky Fried Chicken from a very obviously homosexual teen-ager
(which I would imagine was not always easy for him, here
in the
middle of nowhere) and an ancient, if very pleasant older person who I
first
made for a man, but was in fact a woman. Given that there was no booze
and that the casino only had video blackjack -- even more of a
license
to steal than normal -- I had taken the chik-chak back to the motel to
eat and watch part of a James Bond movie marathon on TBS. I was only
able to force down four beers, so I packed away the other two for later
use, and left the untouched six pack in the bed of somebody's pickup
(festooned with Univ. of Tennesse stickers), along with a note saying
to enjoy it courtesy of the wacko on the bike (as this had been in late
November).
That was three years ago.
This time around I knew to ignore
the endless
string of
“Authentic Indian Crafts” stores (perhaps except
this one) and
all-you-can-eat buffet joints and
head
straight into the Park via NC/TN 441. Handicapped only briefly by a
Buick
traveling at literally 21 MPH -- and braking for even the slightest
hint
of
movement either on the road or along its sides -- I eventually began
heading for
the road towards Clingman’s Dome, the 6,600+ ft.
elevation peak that is
actually only second-highest within the park to NC’s Mount Mitchell.
There is a
walkway and a tower from which one can see five or six states,
depending on
visibility. Last time I was through there it was snowing, so
the road was closed, and I never got to see it. This time, it was
uber-foggy on
the left (“west”?) side of the slope, but sunny on the right, so I
sacrificed
fifteen miles and thirty minutes to give it a shot. Foiled by
Clingman’s Dome
again! Nothing but pea-soup
fog at the top, so I bailed on the walk to
the
tower and drank iced tea and had some trail mix.
The ride back down
towards Tennessee
drops
drastically in
elevation, though this time it was a picnic compared to when there was
snow on
the road and ice on the sides. Even so, there is a point where the road
curves
back under
itself, and I borrowed this
picture from the web and
superimposed a
hastily-drawn version of the advisory sign that precedes it. Don’t see
THAT one
all that often...
Later I made a decision to select
one
particular route to Knoxville instead
of another because
it looked like it would be shorter and faster. Also, I had already once
taken
that other route, so I figured I'd catch some different sights this
time. I was
disappointed that there was a scenic area turn-off that came up so
fast, I
barely had time to even see it, but it was the town of Gatlinburg,
which looked
to be a lovely little area nestled within a narrow valley with
buildings built
into the hillsides and a tramway leading to a lookout point atop the
nearest peak.
Compare that with the next town, Pigeon Forge…
If this website
can accomplish one thing, may it be this: do not
drive through Pigeon Forge unless it
is your destination,
because it will frustrate the h-e-double hockey sticks out of you.
Trust me on
this one.
Finally back on the interstate
towards
Knoxville, I
endured
another intense, yet brief rain shower, because naturally I had removed
the
rain gear by then. Wasn’t as bad this time around because I was still
wearing
the full-face helmet I had earlier swapped into from the open-face one,
so the
raindrops weren’t hitting me directly in the grill. There was some
major
re-routing of the interstate due to construction, and despite the
rather
contradictory temporary signage I managed to negotiate my way towards
the
downtown area. At the off-ramp a guy in the next lane gave me the
heads-up that
my trailer lights weren’t working. I thanked him and checked it out,
and
wouldn’t
you know it? I hadn’t plugged them in when I left the campground
earlier in the
day. YIKES…
Safely reached the Crowne Plaza
and secured a
room, shortly after which
I was
forced to explain to the bellman why I needed to bring five bags up to
the room
for a one-night stay. He thoughtfully let me off the hook and said he’d
seen
worse performances. Something had made me think to include my umbrella
in the
stash, and perhaps more amazingly I even thought to take it with me
when I went
out. I was bringing a bottle of good wine with me to dinner, carrying
it in the
bottom half of a tubular cooler sleeve about the length and thickness
of a
baseball bat, with a strap so one can sling it over a shoulder. Wine
bottle in
the bottom half, auto-opening umbrella in the top half. I walked around
the
nice little downtown area, checking out HQ of the Tennessee Valley
Authority; an
energetic, if sparsely-attended “Shakespeare
on the Square”
performance; and several state government buildings that I
hadn’t
actually
identified. The big marquee at the Tennessee Theatre
was not yet
illuminated,
but I figured I’d catch that later at night (sadly, it still hadn’t
been lit when
I left). And when another brief monsoon hit the downtown area, no
problem: The
Chief (tm) one-handedly draws and arms the umbrella in a single
overhead motion and
is fully prepared.
File under “Knoxville Does It
Again”: last
time I was there, I was well
into my
fifth pint of microbrew at the Downtown
Grill & Brewery when
the bartender finally elected to tell me that they
were something like 7.5 or 8% alcohol. So, what, was that like I had
drank ten
pints instead of five, alcohol-wise? Next morning I was hung over like
crazy
and didn’t get out of town for many more hours, forcing me to ride at
night
through the upper Appalachians in early December -- very annoying and
more than cold enough.
This time I around
cannot blame the
DG&B,
for everything
there was roses, as Tony Montana once put it. Just an excellent
execution on
all facets of an affordably-priced sirloin dinner, and the
second-highest-end cabernet that Robert Mondavi makes had stored and
traveled well. I
returned to the crib at a
reasonable hour (10 PM?) and noticed that there was no one in the lobby
bar.
What could the hurt be?
Famous last words.
“Actual”, the impact on the
noggin the next
morning
was
nothing like the previous time. Nevertheless the risk had
been there, considering the aggressive mix of diverse beverages
to accompany conversations with three different parties who had moseyed
on in
after I had, and not to mention the generosity of the bartender with
his
pouring. Finally got out of there to hit the sack.
Good
night!
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