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DAY
SEVEN COMMENTARY
Now this,
people,
is what I call good eatin'.
Sure, I'm disappointed that it turned out not to be worth visiting here,
because I was definitely looking forward to sunrise over the Gulf of
Mexico and
kayaking around out there. Sadly, the Army Corps of Engineers weren't
yet
through rebuilding the beach from Hurricane Katrina
damage. Word is that Our President was
finally jolted into
mobilizing them when reports
of the Myanmar typhoon began to hit the wires. Yes, a horrible
performance, but
at least it can no longer be claimed that he still hasn't
heard of that
pesky little storm which just brushed the GoM in 2005. Back here in the
present, then, this meant no beach camping for at least another few
weeks, so I
just missed out.
Waitaminnit: Breaux
Bridge! Where
is it? What is it? How the heck did I end up here? Truth
be told, you
can blame whatever newspaper article it was I saw a while back that
called it
the "Paris of the South", and then you can blame these
guys
for an incredibly in-depth write
up about something I love -- food -- and then mainly you must blame
one Soggy-G, who
coincidentally sent me the link just days after I had seen the article!
Given
all that, how could I not come
here?
Let’s back up a bit.
First thing
to note is
that one does occasionally hear the word “Loosiana”. I let a cabbie
hustle an
extra dollar out of me towards a tip, but it was pretty damned funny as
it was going
down so we shared a laugh about it. I had expected getting out of New
Orleans to
be utterly nightmarish, but it went more smoothly than could have been
imagined, as my departure was well in advance of (and therefore
uncomplicated
by) the less hardy, more hung-over souls still swallowing Advil by the
fistful up
in their rooms. I retrieved the bike and got to ride down a now-empty
Bourbon
Street one last time before leaving town.
Back onto
the elevated highway
and pulling out, it occurred to me that for all the times I’ve visited,
I’ve
never really gotten anywhere near the Superdome, which sits right
downtown.
There was some construction and a passing, momentary drizzle, but
nothing of
any consequence. The interstate hovered above wetlands and then
followed the
western edge of Lake Ponchartrain, which somehow made it seem even
bigger than
it did when I drove over the middle of it on the way in; a row of giant
power
transmission lines disappeared off into the horizon, and I couldn't
even see the long Rte. 190 bridge that was somewhere out there
in
the middle of the lake, let alone the one on the eastern edge that I
had come in on. There were some
more
basins to traverse and eventually a very long one which featured a
roadway that
did not divert at all from a straight line ride for what I would
estimate to be
about five
miles, I kid you not.
At Baton Rouge I crossed high
above the Mississippi River under my own power for the first time ever,
calling
to mind the lyrics to two songs which I could subsequently not get out
of my head for hours -- Janis Joplin’s “Me & Bobby
McGee” ("Busted flat in Baton Rouge...") and Johnny Horton's "Battle of
New Orleans" ("in 1814 we took a little trip, along with Colonel
Jackson down the mighty 'Mississip'..."). It was early enough, and my
trip was short enough that I
sought to
visit a trailer service shop to ask what they thought of the condition
of the
trailer’s tires, having been ground down a bit, you'll recall, on Day One when
coming
into
contact with the fenders. For this I
drove one exit past Breaux Bridge to the next interchange and headed up
another
highway for about ten miles, away from Lafayette and towards Carencro,
in doing
so getting a lay of the land that would soon turn out to have been
rather
fortuitous.
Receiving good advice on the
tires -- though being forced to conceive of an on-the-fly solution in
classic The
Chief (tm) style, I headed back to Breaux Bridge to investigate more closely. I
drove
around, got some
more
pictures,
and passed by the establishment
at which I
intended
to enjoy the “boudin” for the first time, it having received top marks
by the
Boudin Link crazies. I had passed by one or two other purveyors, but
left the original
target in the bulls-eye.
OK, now it
was time to
scope out the lodging, because the campground I had gotten wind of
hadn’t had a
website of any kind, so I knew only its street address. It wasn’t
that easy
to find, marked only by a small sign, and then over a rather bumpy
road,
parallel to but at least shielded from the interstate by a nice thicket
of
trees, so highway noise wouldn’t be too bad a problem.
The tent
site fee of $12
was certainly agreeable, though it did not have electric hookups and
that was
to be key, since my cell phone desperately needed recharging, not to
mention
that I’d hoped to do some more website updating and I wanted to run the
laptop
on the adapter as much as possible. And the bath house was on the grody
side, although
I could have handled it. In the end, though I used it as an excuse,
lack of electricity
(or of anything else) was not to be the major issue here; let’s just
say that I
did not like the vibe at all.
First, the explanation of precisely
where I should put the tent was rather vague. In itself that would not
have
been a problem, but as I stood there considering where to locate it,
the
surroundings just seemed to grow seedier and seedier. There was camping
equipment
that, by its age, may have represented “permanent” residence for some;
but
could anyone actually live in
something
like that? Then there was this one site which had nothing on it but a
few
satellite dishes; there was plenty of room for my tent and stuff, but
would
somebody think I was trying to move in on their "territory"
("backyard"?) or something?
What I think finally did it for me was
that
there was a cruddy white Dodge van across from where I was standing,
looking
like it hadn’t been moved in quite some time. Suddenly, I noticed that
a head had
appeared in the front window. Had that guy been in there the whole
time? If so,
had he been sleeping in the thing?
If
so, is he just waking up? It’s 3 PM. Finally I realized, hey, man,
would I really want to set up the
tent here, and
then leave it all behind to go get dinner? The answer to that
question was
“no way”.
People, I was out of there.
I went back to the office just in
time
to see the proprietor pulling away in a golf
cart towards the other side of the property, to which I would not be
able to
follow on the bike. I called out, not really expecting to be heard, and
easily ready
to bolt and sacrifice the $12 regardless. But the cart turned around, I
mumbled
something about the electricity, and got back the full amount even
though I would
have settled for $10, just for the right to stay alive.
Back to civilization, I headed back towards the Bayou Cabin, figuring
to (1) eat
and (2) inquire about lodging, even though I knew that the minimum
price was $70 per night and not really wanting to spend that.
When I got back
there I saw
a sign indicating that the room rate included a “sample platter” of
dinner-type
food, and
breakfast, thus partially mitigating the
room cost, so maybe it would be the right call. Sadly, I then also
noticed this
sign
and wondered aloud, “Does
Louisiana have
it in for The Chief (tm)?”
So NOW what,
smarty-pants?
I gots me no food and no lodging, and it is getting into the five
o’clock hour,
and having been ahead of the curve earlier, I felt like I was suddenly
slipping
behind. But I had passed several motels up along the earlier Carencro
stretch,
so I knew they would give me options...even if it meant that I ‘d have
a
real
tough call as to whether to enjoy any beer with my chow and then ride
the bike
back to the crib, because that is A Rule I have not broken since
acquiring the
ST1100.
Remembering having seen another boudin shop in my travels, and then
managing to
find it again, I pulled into the parking lot at Charlie T's.
Chatting
with
another biker on the way in the door, I learned what “boudin” was (sort
of like
a sausage with meat, spice, maybe a rice or potato filling, I couldn’t
tell), how
to say it (“bou-DAN”, though I kept getting nervous about making a
mistake and
asking every time), and what “cracklin” was (or, maybe, what “cracklins
were”, I
didn’t really catch the terminology -- and at any rate it is/they are
fried pork
rinds). And I’ll tell ya, at this point I decided I would break The
Rule and
have one (1) ice-cold beer with my
chow, but this was not to be an
option as
the place didn’t sell any. Little could I have known that days later I
would learn
that ROOT BEER is the way to go when you’re talking boudin!
Armed with
my boudin
(wrapped in paper), crackling (in a small paper bag) and Coke, I
headed out
to sit at the picnic table in the parking lot like the locals do,
except that
the locals don’t do that when it is quite this hot outside.
No, when
it’s that hot they
take their food to go and eat inside, y’know, somewhere air
conditioned. Not an
option for This Guy, however, so there I was. Still, eating outside
allowed me to
chat
with more nice folks coming into the shop, many of them in the oilfield
services biz, which made for some interesting conversation in
which I
learned things I did not know.
I really
liked the boudin
(eaten simply with your hands), and while I didn’t care for the
crackling at
first, it grew on me a bit and I could see where it fits in (for some,
though, the
cracklin is the attraction, not the other way around). On a second
visit inside
the store, during which I intended to order another boudin, the
friendly
staffers then asked me if I wanted another “regular” one or the
“seafood” one
with shrimp and crawfish inside. Well, of course I had to go for the
variety
and, truth be told, if in the future I was presented with the choice of
only one
type, it may be that I’d need to choose the seafood. It had
more of a
spice and
jazziness to it, and I thought it was fantastic.
At some
point it occurred to
me: what if I had stayed at the campground, then walked the 1.2 miles
to the
boudin place I first wanted to try, as I had initially planned? I would
have
found it closed, and this place was at least another mile distant. I
would have
had to decide whether to keep on going, and risk getting back to the
campground
after dark, or to simply head back at that moment, and have driven to a
town
specifically to eat boudin, only to be stuck eating at a Taco Bell
something.
Glad it worked out!
OK, well,
right now you’re
thinking, “But, The Chief (tm), for the moment you don’t have a roof
over your
head, so has it really ‘worked out’ yet?” And that would be a fine
question. As
I said, during the trailer-repair search I had passed a few
national-chain type
motels, or billboards for others, and I had zeroed in on one of them
for cost,
location and amenities, so I headed towards it, on the outskirts of
either Lafayette
or Carencro proper, if not both.
As I did not name names regarding the
campground, I will similarly not
do so
here either. The billboard on the highway had read, “One Person,
$35.99”. When
I got there, the sign on the motel marquee read “$37.99”. OK, whatever.
Do you
have a room, I axed? The reply was affirmative, and I said something
like “Good,
because the prices keep going up as I get closer.” Chuckles all around.
Apparently, though, the joke wasn’t
over yet.
The prices actually hadn’t yet
stopped climbing; because it was the weekend (about which I hadn’t
really had
any idea), the base rate was $41.99. Ah,
well, at least there’s the pool, right? Well, no, the pool was out of
service
(until “tomorrow morning”). Uh-huh. Well, at least there’s the wi-fi.
No points
for guessing correctly
whether or not the wi-fi signal reached my room at all.
Now, folks,
after all
that, what do you think my first thought was as I pulled down to my
room? My
first thought was, “maybe the campground wasn't such a bad idea.” Here
again I
noted increasing seediness as I made my way down the parking lot,
occupied mostly
by rejects from “Pimp My Ride”-- the early
rounds. At least I was able to park directly in
front of my room, and as I
was shuttling all of the stuff I’d never use into it, a guy from next
door
noted my license plate and asked where in SC I was from. While the
answer was “Myrtle”,
and he lived in Columbia, we struck up an ongoing conversation anyway
and after
getting the lowdown from Willie and roommate Robert, in the area
together to
complete some contracting work, I felt more assured that things would
be OK.
They
went out to grab dinner while I stayed
behind and changed the grease on the trailer’s hubs, a somewhat
annoying, but
necessary ninety minute process, made easier by borrowing a jack they
happened
to have in the truck (I had first asked for a cinder block, just like
back on
the morning of Day
Two). I was done about the time they returned, we
swapped
more stories and hung out for a little, and we shared in some of the
ever-present
Crown Royal Cask No. 16. I needed to do some web updating so I returned
to my
room and, though the night was noisy with the sound of breaking bottles
and
children running around outside at one, two, three in the
morning,
mercifully
I slept fine and discovered no damage to the rig (accidental
or otherwise) the next morning. The trip was to
continue unabated!
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